JOES BUG OUT VEHICLE

NOTE: This project is no longer active. The vehicle has been sold and a new one is being outfitted to replace it. To view the new vehicles data Click here

There are many things that must be taken into consideration when choosing a bug out vehicle. The first and major consideration is must this machine serve as the family transportation or can it be a dedicated survival vehicle?

To begin with it needs to be able to take you and your family plus your bug out kits, your group tools and kit, your food, water and cooking kit, extra fuel for the vehicle, vehicle maintenance tools and components, sleeping bags, tents and camping kit etc.

Once everything and everyone is loaded aboard the vehicle it still needs to offer reasonable performance characteristics on and off road, if bugging out cross country is planned then by all means go the 4 wheel drive route, alternatively I plan to use the highways, byways and trails to reach a retreat therefore fuel economy and possibly a large fuel tank range will offer more practical use than off road ability. Decent ground clearance is another necessity in my particular situation.

Obviously the more severe the terrain you are planning to cross the more likely it is that you will need a vehicle fitted with a winch and high lift jacks.

I myself have included additional requirements for my bug out van such as tow bars and hitches, heavy duty roof rails/racks to facilitate a large amount of kit to move in one go.

Extras such as long range fuel tanks etc are desirable but will be installed when and if they be come available. Directable auxiliary lighting in both fore and aft are mandatory and will be installed at some future date. Two way radios, CB radios, GPS systems are other considerations.

It should have a well insulated floor, walls and ceiling for use in extreme weather, it should have a decent heating system. You will certainly need at least one additional battery and split charger system fitting and this can be topped off with a solar panel unit mounted on the roof.

Snow tires or some sort of off road tires are a must.

The vehicle should be a popular type so as to facilitate improved chances of obtaining spare parts after any sort of disaster and while traveling.

SELF BUILT CAMPERS AS BUG OUT VEHICLES

Currently growing in popularity in Europe, Australia and the USA is the trend for people to build and fit out their own campervans, not only is it far cheaper to do than buying a factory built model (being as much as 70% cheaper in many cases) but the builders can also tailor the specific design of the vehicle to exactly match their own requirements. All this is topped of with the fact that the self builders can also control 100% of the build quality of the vehicle. Of equal importance is the fact that if you build the thing yourself you can do most of the maintenance and repairs yourself as well.

Think about it for a minute, how often do survivalists and the preparedness community talk about wishing they could get a family vehicle that would double up as a recreation vehicle and as a bug out vehicle. So if Ford, GM, Chevrolet , Land Rover, or whoever not produce a vehicle that best suits your needs why not build your own ?.

This is the route that I decided to take. I am determined to build my own BOV however some of the requirements stated I disagree with. To begin with I needed a suitable base vehicle that would meet my personal criteria, for me this was a small easy on gas van.

In a Bug Out Vehicle that I may need to possibly live in for up to six months I will need to carry more logistical support than Joe Q Public does when he goes on vacation, So as a survivalist I will need to plan far more storage capacity within my base vehicle than a conventional camper would.

I totally disagree with the idea that the Survivalist primarily needs a large capacity engine as I prefer a small easy on gas engine supplied with fuel from extra large fuel tanks, The further I can go without refueling the less vulnerable I will be to meeting trouble in gas stations during a crisis. I will also be less affected by localized or short term shortages of fuel that could paralyze a conventional vehicle.

Although large fresh water tanks are usually desired and mounted under the floor between the chassis rails, I had to contend with two 5 gallon water containers. Even though I am not in an extreme northern climate I will insulate the tanks anyway.

I will need at least one dirty water receiving tank so as not to foul the environment if I am stuck in one location. I will need heating and hot water systems for cooking and hygiene. I will need cooking facilities, In my case it will be bottled gas fed cooker.

My rear seating will convert easily and readily into a bed for the entire family group.

I will require storage for food, clothing, hygiene, tools, vehicle spares, weapons , books and maps, medical kit, recovery kit (tow rope, axe, jack, etc), Refrigeration will also be required for fresh foods, I will be using a dual camping fridge that runs on 12V DC or Mains Electric.

In time I will install a small hot water system, just enough for washing up. It should be a dual system.

I feel a 12 volt electrical system is necessary and should be supplied by a leisure battery or solar panel. I fully advocate the use of an ancillary 12 volt battery. Using any of your electrical accessories in your BOV with your engine switched off could quickly result in major problems. If you use your battery to the point of it becoming dead you can not start your vehicle and thus you are very rapidly stranded where you sit. This is why I push for all BOV to use an ancillary power system or a secondary battery system. Once the system is properly installed you can safely use your TV or radios or any of your 12 volt appliances or your converters without fear of killing your primary battery. With a secondary battery system you will always have a fresh main battery ready to start your BOV at a moments notice.

You should seriously consider a deep cycle battery as your secondary battery because it can provide years of trouble free performance with its charge and discharge cycles without experiencing any sort of damage. Keep in mind that not all batteries can take this abuse and that’s why the deep cycle batteries are better suited for this purpose.

A battery box is very useful in the installation and maintenance of your secondary battery. Although the best material to use for construction is steel you can safely make it from aluminum.

I would highly recommend that your ancillary batter be wrapped in a tick layer of rubber to protect it from shock. Gel cell batters can actually be installed in just about any position even upside down should the need arise.

The next important item necessary in the secondary battery system would be the battery isolator. When you BOV is running your battery is receiving a constant charge keeping it in top condition. When you install the second battery the battery isolator connects both battery to the charging system to allow them to equally get charged up. Now, when you shut the vehicle engine off the battery systems become separate allowing your secondary battery to be used for any electrical purpose you may desire and it may even be drained to the point of being totally dead while still maintaining a fully charged main battery to start your engine with. Below is an example of the battery isolator used in the project van.

This isolator was purchased off of eBay for $30.00 which included shipping.

In keeping with my 12 volt philosophy I must admit that there will be occasional items that will require AC voltage. This is of no great problem for me as I freely use power inverters within the van. A power inverter is a device that changes the 12-volt power from your ancillary battery in the BOV  to 110-volts AC, which is the same type of electricity which you would find in your home outlets. These useful power invertors are readily available in various power capacities. They are particularly useful for powering up items such as video games and computers or even a small microwave ovens. One of the converters which I have available in my van is shown below. Others are more conventional in shape and hidden inside cabinets.

.Those are the basics and can be adapted , omitted or altered to suit your own needs and budgets. When running the power converters off the battery be sure to use heavy gauge cabling as the larger converters of 1000 watts and up can consum consdierable power. The further distance that the cable must go from the battery to its determined location to the inverter then the heavier the cable should be. If the supply cable is too small the inverter could possibly be damaged.

It is important to make sure that the vehicle has adequate fresh air ventilation so that I do not kill myself with carbon monoxide poisoning from heaters, etc.

MY BUG OUT VEHICLE

 When dealing with your vehicle you should become as familiar with it as possible. In the event of an emergency it doers not hurt to know what parts from other vehicles are interchangeable with yours. These facts are just as important as knowing where to find the necessary repair parts. As an example it is good to know that Ford truck rims will fit Chevy trucks however the reverse is not necessarily true. I would highly recommend that you know everything you can about your vehicle such as who made your engine, what other types of vehicles came out with the same engine, etc. Imagine in your mind where the things are for your vehicle that you may need ahead of time. Make a detailed list so you do not get too far off track. Typical listing items may be who sells what within a ten mile radius. Being prepared and being ready is the name of the game.

The following information is based upon a dedicated BOV maintained and used strictly for Bug Out purposes. My families criteria for a Bug Out Vehicle have been dictated by various considerations, they are

Cost
Where we live
Where we would bug out to
Local geography
Size of family
What I want to take with us
What logistics I have cached
What logistics I have access to at my retreat locations.

Those are my own needs, your will be different.

Firstly although it would be nice to have a 4 x 4 SUV I believe in living and dealing with what you have on hand. So I must admit that I have had to trade off some capability for crossing rough ground for being able to carry my family and supplies long distance. I am to a certain extent relying on my being able to read between the lines as a crisis develops allowing me at the very least to place the BOV outside the city limits giving me enough time to get ahead of any possible road closures by the authorities.

Part of my considerations in my planning is the fact I need to plan to feed, care for, protect and shelter not only myself but my wife and grandson as well, so where as I could happily get by with a rucksack and tent I know my wife and grandchild could not.

Add to this the limited funds available to me I have chosen the following options.

For day to day use my wife and I will establish a rendezvous point should she get our pre arranged "bug out" message from me. The prime vehicle which we now will rely on for the foreseeable future will be a much modified van.

I have started on converting a 1990 Dodge Caravan of medium roof height and a short wheel base body, it has a 4 cylinder gasoline engine with an automatic transmission .The oil is 100% synthetic and the coolant runs at a 50% mix which is more than enough for current winters. If necessary a fuel system pre heater can be installed. All hoses and filters are to be changed, the brakes will be completely rebuilt, if found a 95 AH alternator will be installed to charge the batteries supplemented by a PV panel on the roof. The headlights will have the bulbs replaced and upgraded to ultra bright H4 aftermarket bulbs that are 50% brighter than normal, all drive belts will be replaced with upgraded new belts. The tires will all be snow tires to add additional grip to mud, etc.

Inside the vehicle extra storage has been built above the driver/passenger compartment that will take clothing, bedding etc. A 4 passenger seat will be installed on each side of the vehicle, the seat easily converts into a bed. On the nearside of the vehicle storage has been built that also includes a cooker, sink, water pump, gas bottle locker and water tanks. A certain amount of
overhead storage has been built but I really want to keep the centre of gravity as low as possible. Tinted side windows will be installed in the side of the vehicle when funds allow. The rear doors have been bolted shut and the door release mechanisms disconnected in an effort to reduce break ins. Hopefully we will soon install a butane powered cab heater to keep us snug on those cold nights.

Food, fuel, clothes, medical kit, tools and spares, radios, batteries, and all the assorted bug out paraphernalia are stored where ever it can be placed. So far I have not mounted anything outside the body of the vehicle though in time I can see the need to add external fittings for jerry cans, spare wheel carriers, roof racks etc.

Currently I am broke so increasing the fuel carrying capability of the vehicle rests on carrying extra jerry cans within the vehicle which is highly undesirable and smelly to boot. As an interim measure I will fabricate a rack to go on the tow bar to carry extra cans.

Water carrying capacity in my BOV is still also unsatisfactory at 2 5 gallon containers of fresh water but finding fresh running water is not currently an issue unless you are very unlucky, plans are in the pipeline to fit a larger more permanent freshwater tank somewhere on the van If push came to shove my family could comfortably live in the vehicle for weeks at a time requiring only occasional replenishment from outside sources such as caches.

1990 Dodge Caravan Camper conversion

I started modifying our 1990 Dodge Caravan as a bug out vehicle in 2007 after running it for several months on the road. I thought I'd start documenting all the information and modifications as I did them in the event that someone else may want to duplicate my endeavors.

Since the van began life as a normal van and not a camper the modifications listed are divided into two distinct types – those relating to the van and those relating to the camper. You'll note some of the modifications/additions to our van come from some campers/modules (i.e., 110v outside receptacle, reading lights etc.). The van really needs to be comfortable enough for some of your party to stretch out in the back to gain some sleep without having to unload the vehicle, thus the conversion fits this requirement well.

Our Dodge Caravan was the smallest of the Caravan series. We originally purchased the van for $600.00, which considering its condition may have been too much. The big plus I was looking at was the 4 cylinder engine. With the price of gas raising the 4 cylinder engine looked very attractive. The unleaded gasoline engine was the default choice.

11/16/06 – We purchased the van in November of 2006. Pictures are shown below of the van before we began any retrofit. As you can clearly see this van needed a lot of work to make it a Bug Out Vehicle.

11/16/06 - The initial work began by getting rid of the nasty blue color. It was replaced with a forest green which is merely a temporary color until the necessary body work is completed and the cammo colors can be applied.

• 11/16/06 - Notice the vent on the roof of the van. This van had previously been used for house cleaning so I assume the vent was installed to get rid of the fumes.

• 11/16/06 – There is a lot of external body work to be completed on the van before I can proudly call it a BOV but it will be done in time within budget.

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• 11/16/06 – Below are pictures of the interior prior to any work being completed to modify it.

• 11/16/06 – The rear seat shown above will eventually be taken out and replaced with a table and seats similar to those found in small campers.

11/16/06 - This wasn't the exact Bug Out Vehicle I was looking for however I feel one has to take the ball and run with it and this is what I ended up with.

08/13/07 – Had to replace a broken rear tail light lens so that the Van would pass the state inspection. Also replaced tail light bulbs on drivers side rear.

08/13/07 – I tried putting tape on the bad spot of the rear passenger lens but the inspection station failed it anyway, and I had to get a used one from the wrecking yard.

08/18/07 – Began sanding and spraying the Olive Drab flat paint on the van. Taking my time to make it look good. The pictures below show what I got done today.

08/18/07 – This van is starting to look mean already.

12/20/07 - A good coat of Olive drab paint has been placed on the vehicle at this time. We could not find a good oil base paint since our government has outlawed oil base paint. According to the Sherwin Williams paint dealer if anyone is caught selling oil base paint it is now a prison term and hefty fine. I ended up using boat paint purchased from Gander Mountain Store. It worked great.

Our trailer electrical connector is a 4 pin flat connector which is the most common in use today. These connectors are found on the majority of the light trailers. This connector has taillights, stoplight and blinker functions.. Below you will find the connector and the wiring guide for it.

 

03/12/08 There simply is no arguing that adding a grill guard not only looks good but also adds some protection to the front of the van. Purchased a Westin Brush guard grill for the front of the BOV. This item was originally made for a Ford ranger but we will modify it to work on the caravan. This item was also purchased from eBay for the sum of $19.99. It was in mint conduction.

03/29/2008 - Replaced the fuel pump on this date.

03/31/2008 - Here we have the camouflaged body. it needs additional coats of paint put on it but it is starting to come out looking pretty good. The roof is not completed as of yet for I want o put a coat of mom-slip truck bed paint on it. Then paint it olive drab.

03/31/2008 - Here are some pictures of the kitchen unit installed. This unit was removed from a popup camper and installed in the rear of the van. The sink and stove are readily accessible by lifting up the rear hatch area. I haven't decided yet whether to paint the unit or not. Perhaps it will be painted olive drab. The choice is still up in the air. I still need to take and build around the sink/stove unit to give it a more complete look. There will be wood on each of the sides as well as on the top to continue to to each side of the van.

03/31/2008 If you look closely you can see the sink drain plug on the rear side of the van just behind the rear tire. It currently has the capabilities of free flow or to connect a hose and run the grey water off to the side somewhere.

 

Maintenance Expenses, etc

The following items represent the maintenance expenses encountered in the daily use of the vehicle. This list can also be used for replacement part numbers.

September 1, 2007 – Replaced both rear shocks with Gabriel Pro-guards.