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Understanding Electromagnetic Pulse
and
How to Prevent Resulting Damage to Electrical Equipment
by Joe Bobier One of the
many fables of nuclear war that has been worn out
in an effort to convince us all of the futility of
it all is EMP. When understood,
the problem can take on realistic proportions.
When a nuclear explosion occurs, a very
broad spectrum of energy is released. It ranges from
nearly DC (o KHZ) to beyond
1021 hertz (gamma rays). The
portion concerned with here ranges from 0 KHZ to
1000 GHZ (beyond radar uses).
Two basic sorts of damage can
occur as a result of EMP. The first being what we will
call " power line " type of damage, and the other
being what I'll call " radio
" damage. Power line damage is
resultant from the induction of high levels of current
into relatively long wires such as home or shelter
wiring, electrical generating system wiring such as
the cables running to and from PV (
photovoltaic ) panels, generators, windmills, and of
course in the already famous auto electronic ignition
system. This type of damage can
be virtually eliminated by a
multi-level approach, that provides front line defenses,
and various levels of backup systems in the
event that EMP should overcome
the first level of defense. This layered defense method
has proven highly reliable in
commercial communications systems where radio
towers are subject to severe direct lightning strikes.
Even with such severe EMP and direct surge
conditions which exceed most predicted
EMP conditions, the communications
systems survive often for years of storm seasons.
The first layer of EMP defense is the THYZORB. This is a
solid state single junction device similar to
an avalanche diode. Its maker
is National Semiconductor, and it is distributed by
Square D. You should purchase these devices
specifically matched to the type
of system voltage you wish to protect. For instance, if
you wish to protect a 12 VDC PV
system, you should consider that the
open circuit voltage of most PV panels is around 19 VDC
so a 25 VD C THYZORB would
provide excellent protection. Also
remember that as the amount of
current through the device increases, so does the voltage
drop across the device. Generally about 10 VDC is
to be expected at maximum rating,
thus we can expect that no more than 35 VDC will develop
at the protected area.
I would place a Thyzorb on each panel at the output
terminals and then one more at the junction
of the panels where your main feed line is connected. The
THYZORB is available in many power ratings
from 1.5 KW to 15 KW.
Generally you should be safe with the small ones on
the panels, and the 15 KW unit at the junction point. At
the other end of the feedline add another THYZORB just as
the first one at the junction point was. The
device only has two connections on it which
are placed directly across the lines to be protected.
Under normal conditions, the unit
has no effect on the circuitry.
The unit is reliable and
re-useable. After thousands of
operations, it will still be as good as new. The reaction
time for those who wonder about
such things is about 10 nano seconds. In the event your
cables are longer than ten feet or so, it wouldn't hurt
to add a THYZORB
every ten feet. THYZORBS are available
in many voltages and in AC or DC. This
means you should be installing them in any AC lines such
as inverter outputs or generator
outputs. I would put one in every wall outlet
and light fixture also. Now for the layered effect I
mentioned earlier.
In the event the THYZORB fails you need to have another
device in place to soak up the
balance of the surge. In low voltage DC systems your
choices are somewhat limited. You could use an MOV (
metal oxide varistor ). These are devices
made by General Electric. They are widely available at
stores like Radio Shack. The only problem with MOV's is
that every time they fire (see a surge) they
drift in value a little. Pretty soon your surge stopper
isn't turning on at the right time or worse yet fails
altogether. In low voltage systems, you can't
really use a gas discharge tube, since they only work
at 150 volts or higher. By then your
low voltage equipment will be fried. Instead, at the risk
of sounding redundant, I
recommend another THYZORB but selected at a
slightly higher voltage. Five volts higher would be a
good choice since the second one would only fire if the
first one were
working at 1/2 of its full capacity. This would
cause a current sharing condition
and increase overall device reliability. You could
in theory go several layers in this manner until you felt
completely safe, or you ran out
of EMP money. The actual
connections would be to earth ground the negative (-)
side of your DC power system in several locations.
Use long bronze, brass, or copper rods with heavy,
short cables to the power system. Next attach
the negative (-) side of the protection device, (
THYZORB or other ), to the ground system. Finally, attach
the positive side of the
protection device to the positive
side of the power system. In an AC system,
you can do exactly the same as above with proper device
selection.
You may also use a gas discharge tube
here since we are dealing with a high voltage to start
with. In this case you will have three wires to deal
with; one for each side of
the AC, and one for earth
ground. Additional preventive measures include
grounding the frame of the
PV panel and grounding generator
frames. A good earth ground is very important if
you use gas discharge tubes. If scenes from the " DAY
AFTER " have you paranoid about being trapped in an
immobile car, then take heart. You can EMP proof
your auto electrical system the
same way as your low voltage DC system.
Just put a couple layers of THYZORBS or MOV's across the
DC input to the ignition system.
A few more sprinkled here and there like the power wires
of your CB radio, or your AM/FM receiver will work
wonders. An easy way to reduce the risk of
appliance damage in your home or shelter, if it is an AC
device is to use a personal computer style surge
protector. They are cheap and very easy to install. Most
of these devices use MOV's or better
yet THYZORBS or avalanche diodes. Original
at: http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/Falls/1984/emp.htm
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